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What's in your makeup?

What's in your makeup?

We want to encourage our customers to be informed about the ingredients used in the cosmetic products they use. Regulations in the cosmetics industry are very limited and the FDA only investigates the safety of cosmetic products AFTER a complaint has been made against a company. It is important for consumers to be informed about the products they are using.

From the FDA handbook: "The FD & C act does not require that cosmetic manufacturers or marketers test their products for safety, the FDA strongly urges cosmetic manufacturers to conduct whatever toxicological or other tests are appropriate to substantiate the safety of their cosmetics. If the safety of a cosmetic is not adequately substantiated, the product may be considered misbranded and may be subject to regulatory action unless the label bears the following statement. "Warning-The safety of this product has not been determined.""

It should be stated that "Natural" products aren't always better for the skin just like many other claims by various cosmetics companies aren't necessarily true. The term "Natural" is not regulated for use in describing cosmetics. Furthermore, some advocacy groups discourage people from using products that have ingredients that are difficult to pronounce and not easily recognized by the average person. That's not necessarily a fair assessment either, considering that the official scientific names of many commonly recognized ingredients aren't as well known, but are usually what's listed. "Non Comedogenic", "Natural" and "Organic" are unregulated terms (essentially for marketing purposes only) and any brand can say these products are these things without meeting any across the board definition or specific definitions.

We will fully disclose information about the ingredients we use and their safety information.

Unless otherwise noted, all the information about the following ingredients was obtained from A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients by Ruth Winter, M.S. Another great resource is The Beauty Bible by Paula Begoun. Her website is also full of great information,

she's made it her mission in life to investigate and debunk the claims of cosmetics manufacturers.

All of the ingredients that we use have been approved by the FDA AND the European Union Cosmetics Directive (EUCD).

The European Union Cosmetics Directive has banned 1,100 chemicals in cosmetics; the Food and Drug Administration in America has banned only ten & U.S. law can’t prevent other countries from importing prohibited cosmetics. Companies also aren’t required to register their cosmetic establishments, file data on ingredients, or report cosmetic-related injuries to FDA.

Compare U.S. legislation with European law. The U.S. Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act defines cosmetics as products for “cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.” The intentionally vague language gives manufacturers a lot of freedom to produce questionable merchandise without the risk of government interference.

By contrast, the European Union Cosmetics Directive (EUCD) defines a cosmetic as “any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition.”

EUCD mandates that products “must not cause damage to human health when applied under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use.”

While the EU has more protective and stringent laws toward cosmetics than the U.S. does, it also has the advantage of having each member state regulate products within its own national borders. Where we have one regulatory body, Europe has twenty-seven independent (but cooperative) organizations.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), a self-policing safety panel, is the FDA’s mainprimary source of scientific data. According to its Web site, the CIR “thoroughly reviews and assesses the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics in an open, unbiased, and expert manner, and publishes the results in the peer-reviewed scientific literature.” however, the CIR is funded by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), an industry group of more than six hundred cosmetic companies. In fact, the PCPC reportedly spent over $600,000 on lobbyists in Sacramento to prevent the California Safe Cosmetics Act of 2005, a law that would have required manufacturers to post any unsafe ingredients on product labels, from passing.

Reports from environmental and public-health groups, like the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, have often directly contradicted the “safe” findings of the CIR.

This is precisely why we openly disclose our ingredients to you, because we feel that transparency is the only way to keep consumers informed and cosmetics companies honest. Even as a small brand, we are dedicated to your safety.

Aluminum Powder:

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) lists Aluminum Powder as a color additive exempt from certification. Aluminum Powder is determined to be safe for use in coloring products that are externally applied, including cosmetics and personal care products intended for use in the area of the eye. It is not allowed to be used in lip products. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has deferred evaluation of this ingredient because the safety has been assessed by FDA. This deferral of review is according to the provisions of the CIR Procedures.

More scientific Information:

Aluminum Powder functions as a colorant in cosmetics and personal care products. To be used as a colorant in the United States, Aluminum Powder must comply with FDA specifications. The material must be at least 99% aluminum and must be a certain size so that 100% can pass through a 200-mesh screen, and 95% can pass through a 325-mesh screen.

We only use this ingredient in a couple of our glitters in extremely SMALL amounts. (See Microfine Cosmetic Grade Glitter information below)

Black Oxide:

About IRON OXIDES: Iron oxides are inorganic chemicals used as colorants.

Function(s): Colorant; COSMETIC COLORANT


Bis-vinyl Dimethicone Copolymer:


Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer is a copolymer of Dimethicone end-blocked with Vinyl Dimethicone



Calcium Carbonate:

Chalk. Absorbent that removes shine from talc. A taste-less, odorless powder that occurs naturall in limestone, marble and coral. Used as a white coloring in cosmetics and food. An alkali to reduce acidity, a neutralizer and firming ingredient, and a carrier for bleaches. A gastric antacid and antidiarrhea medicine, it may cause diarrhea.

Calcium Sodium Borosilicate:

In cosmetics and personal care products, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate and Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate function as bulking agents.

CIR Safety Review:The CIR Expert Panel has previously reviewed related ingredients such as silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, aluminum calcium silicate, and other silicate compounds. These silicate ingredients were determined to be safe as used in cosmetic and personal care products.

Based on data on the related silicate ingredients, and data indicating that products containing Calcium Sodium Borosilicate were not eye or skin irritants or dermal sensitizers, the CIR Expert Panel concluded that Calcium Sodium Borosilicate and Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate were safe as used in cosmetic products. Calcium Sodium Borosilicate and Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate may be used in cosmetics and personal care products marketed in Europe according to the general provisions of the Cosmetics Regulation of the European Union.

Chromium Oxide:

Earth mineral used as a coloring agent/additive and permanently listed (as of 1977) by the FDA for use in cosmetic products.

Copper Powder:

Used as a coloring ingredient in cosmetics. One of the earliest known metals, an essential nutrient for all mammals. Copper itself is nontoxic. Copper powder was permanently listed as a cosmetic ingredient in 1977.


The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel concluded in 1991 that compounds containing cyclopentasiloxane were generally safe to use in cosmetics.Cyclopentasiloxane is used in concentrations ranging from as low as 0.1% to levels well into the double-digits. At the lower end, the chemical is found in hand and body moisturizers, as it provides enhanced feeling of soft skin. Irritation is kept to the minimum, while the good feel effect without cooling does find favor among regular users. At the higher end, cyclopentasiloxane carries active antiperspirant compounds to the skin and hair and also provides a hair cuticle coat. It’s compatibility with most personal care ingredients such as mineral oil, ethanol, and fatty acid esters make it a common ingredient in eye liners, best drugstore eye cream, foundation creams, lip liners, and eye shadow.

Ferric Ferrocyanide:

Iron blue. A color for externally applied cosmetics. Permanently listed as a colorant in cosmetics in 1978

Also known as Iron Blue, a coloring agent used in cosmetic products, including those designed for use around the eye. Permanently listed (since 1978) by the FDA as safe, although the EPA considers it toxic when found in water systems.

Iron Oxide:

Widely used to color cosmetics. Any of several natural or synthetic oxides of iron (i.e. iron combined with oxygen), varying in color from red to brown, black to orange or yellow depending on the degree of water added and the purity. Ocher, sienna, and iron oxide red are among the colors used to hint face powders, liquid powders and foundation creams. Black iron oxide is used for coloring eyeshadow. Permanently listed as a cosmetic ingredient in 1977.


Isoparaffins are branched chain hydrocarbons. Isoparaffin ingredients most frequently found cosmetics and personal care products are C13-14 Isoparaffin, Isododecane and Isohexadecane.Other Isoparaffin ingredients that may be found in cosmetics and personal care products include: C7-8 Isoparaffin, C8-9 Isoparaffin, C9-11 Isoparaffin, C9-12 Isoparaffin, C9-13 Isoparaffin, C9-14 Isoparaffin, C9-16 Isoparaffin, C10-11 Isoparaffin, C10-12 Isoparaffin, C10-13 Isoparaffin, C11-12 Isoparaffin, C11-13 Isoparaffin, C11-14 Isoparaffin, C12-14 Isoparaffin, C12-20 Isoparaffin, C13-16 Isoparaffin, C18-70 Isoparaffin, C20-40 Isoparaffin, Isooctane and Isoeicosane.In cosmetics and personal care products, Isoparaffin ingredients may be used in eye makeup preparations, including mascara, makeup preparations, manicuring preparations, skin care and hair care products.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?The isoparaffin ingredients function primarily as solvents in cosmetics and personal care products.The following additional functions have also been reported for the isoparaffin ingredients.Skin-conditioning agent -- emollient -- Isohexadecane, C9-16 Isoparaffin, C12-20 Isoparaffin, C20-40 Isoparaffin, Isoeicosane

Skin-conditioning agent -- miscellaneous -- C11-12 Isoparaffin

Skin-conditioning agent -- occlusive – C18-17 Isoparaffin

Viscosity decreasing agent -- C7-8 Isoparaffin, C8-9 Isoparaffin, C9-11 Isoparaffin, C9-12 Isoparaffin, C9-13 Isoparaffin, C9-14 Isoparaffin, C10-11 Isoparaffin, C10-12 Isoparaffin, C11-14 Isoparaffin

Scientific Facts: Isoparaffins are branched-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons. The C followed by the numbers in the ingredient namrepresents the number of carbons in the chain.For example, C13-14 Isoparaffin is a mixture of branched-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons with 13 or 14 carbons in the chain. Isoparaffin ingredients containing aliphatic hydrocarbons with predominantly a single carbon chain length have names that represent the number of carbons in the chain.For example, Isooctane has 8 carbons, Isododecane has 12 carbons, Isohexadecane has 16 carbons and Isoeicosane has 20 carbons.- See more at:

Kaolin Clay :

China clay. Aids in the covering ability of face powders and in absorbing oil secreted by the skin. Used in baby powders, bath powders, face masks, foundation cake makeups, liquid powders, face powders, dry rouges and emollients. Originally obtained from Kaolin Hill in Kiangsi Province in Southeast China. Essentially a hydrated aluminum silicate. It is a white or yellowish white mass or powder insoluble in water and absorbent.

Magnesium Myristrate:

Magnesium Myristate is the combination of Magnesium, a is mineral that has strong absorbent properties and some disinfecting properties, and Myristate a fatty acid.

Magnesium Myristate contributes the following noticeable aspects to cosmetics: adhesion, free flow, slip, soft feel, rub resistance, lubricity, surface smoothness, and water repellency, according to research.

Manganese violet:

Manganese Violet is a violet pigment used the formulation of makeup, hair coloring products, bath products, nail polish and skin care products.Manganese Violet imparts a violet color to to cosmetics and personal care products. Manganese Violet is a synthetic violet pigment. Because one of the starting materials, manganese oxide, comes from the earth there may be trace amounts of heavy metals in Manganese Violet. The levels of heavy metals in Manganese Oxide are regulated by the FDA, and the small amounts that may eventually be in cosmetic or personal care products do not pose a risk to human health.

- See more at:


Pearls. Any group of minerals that are found in crystallized that can be separated easily. They vary in color from pale green, brown or black to colorless. Do not inhale, can be irritating to lungs. Permanently listed as a cosmetic ingredient in 1977.

Microcrystaliline wax: Microcrystalline Wax is a specific type of wax produced by de-oiling petroleum. It is used in cosmetics and beauty products as a viscosity agent, binder and emollient, and is often considered an alternative to paraffin wax. Unlike paraffin wax, Microcrystalline Wax has fine crystals, and is generally darker, more viscous, denser, tackier and more elastic than paraffin waxes. It has elastic and adhesive characteristics, which are related to its non-straight chain components. Microcrystalline Wax's crystal structure is small and thin, making these waxes more flexible than paraffin wax as well, according to Wikipedia. “The fine crystal structure also enables microcrystalline wax to bind solvents or oil, preventing the sweating-out of compositions,” according to the International Group, Inc., the preeminent manufacturer of Microcrystalline Waxes.

Microcrystalline Wax is seen in a variety of cosmetics and beauty products for the following uses: Creams and Lotions as a viscosity builder and emollient; Waterproof Mascara as a water repelling agent; Eyeliner pencils as a structure formation agent; Pressed powder as a binder to add softness; Lipsticks for structure formation; Hair Care as an ingredient in styling waxes Microcrystalline Wax is considered a safe ingredient and additive in beauty products and cosmetics. The EWG rates Microcrystalline Wax 99% safe and the CIR approves its use. There are no studies found that report any negative side effects or dangers when using products containing Microcrystalline Wax.

Microfine Cosmetics Grade Glitter:

Microfine Cosmetics Grade Glitter: Glitters - Cosmetic Microfine

All of the colourants used in our microfine glitters are of food grade standard and they all conform to the stringent EU standards for use in cosmetics. With a tiny particle size of 1/256”/0.1mm/.004 Hex/100 microns our microfine glitters are ideal for use in pressed eyeshadows, lipsticks, body shimmer, sun block, CP soap, M&P soaps, lotions, bath bombs, shower gel, arts and crafts etc...

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel published the following review in 2013. The review panel is an independent panel and not associated with the FDA. They do regular reviews of ingredients used in cosmetics and make recommendations:…/ModTer_122012_Tent_faa_final%20f…

The CIR concluded that to date PET is safe to use in cosmetics and that there have been few reports of adverse affects such as corneal damage.

Conclusion: The FDA in the United States has not approved PET glitter for use in makeup. Glitter that is made for cosmetic use a is approved for use in other countries in the EU and Asia.


The FDA states that UV Reactive pigments should only be used on lips not eyes (like Urban Decay's Electric Palette) and the FDA has not approved glitter of any kind (cosmetic grade or not) for use in any cosmetic. While the EU allows both of these ingredients to be used on both and overall has much more strict and consumer conscious regulations.

This is probably surprising considering how many big name brands use glitter in their makeup. The FDA has stated that they are giving cosmetic companies in the U.S. and indefinite grace period before they begin enforcing this rule, but they claim that at some point they will unless more research comes to show that glitter in cosmetics is safe by their standards. What their standards are in such regard is unclear.

The FDA is also unclear about labeling products meant for eyes vs lips. Many companies label products ambiguous names, like pigments instead of eye shadows and encourage multiple uses to "get around" the FDA restrictions on certain color additives or glitter being used on the eyes. Many companies feel this is more ethical than strictly following FDA guidelines since the EU standards are more strict and ban far more scientifically proven to be harmful ingredients that the FDA still allows. Essentially, these products are still generally considered safe to use especially if you break down the science and reasoning behind when these products might be harmful, like glitter.

Red # 6, red #28, Red #30, Red #34:

PER FDA: LAKES: Color additive lakes are provisionally listed under 21 CFR 81.1. Part 82 of 21 CFR explains how lakes may be manufactured and named and lists the color additives that may be used to manufacture lakes. All lakes are subject to certification.

Examples of nomenclature of lakes:The name of a lake is formed from the name of the color additive combined with the name of the basic radical and the word "Lake". For example, the name of the lake prepared by extending the aluminum salt of FD&C Blue No. 1 upon alumina would be FD&C Blue No. 1 - Aluminum Lake.

If a lake is prepared by extending an FD&C color additive on a substratum other than alumina, the symbol "FD&C" will be replaced by "D&C". For example, the name of the lake prepared by extending the aluminum salt of FD&C Blue No. 1 upon a substratum other than alumina would be D&C Blue No. 1- Aluminum Lake.

D&C Red #6 - For drugs (combined total of D&C Red No.6 & D&C Red No. 7 < 5 mg per day); For cosmetics (GMP) -74.1306, 74.2306, 82.1306

D&C Red #28 - For drugs generally and cosmetics - GMP -74.1328, 74.2328, 82.1328

D&C Red #30 - For drugs generally and cosmetics - GMP -74.1330, 74.2330, 82.1330

Color Additives subject to certification and permanently listed (unless otherwise indicated) for use in EXTERNALLY APPLIED DRUGS & COSMETICS. (None of these colors may be used in products that are for use in the area of the eye (except in Europe)

D&C Red #34 - GMP - 74.1334, 74.2334, 82.1334

Snythetic Fluorophylogopite:

A synthetic mineral based on fluorine, aluminum and silicate; also known as synthetic fluorine mica; used as a bulking agent.

Function(s): Bulking Agent; Viscosity Increasing Agent - Aqueous; VISCOSITY CONTROLLING



Silica is a mineral found naturally in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as in parts of plants and animals, and is used as a versatile ingredient in the cosmetics and skin care industry because of its ability to serve as a an abrasive, anticaking agent, bulking agent, opacifying agent and suspending agent.

Silicone Dioxide:

Any of a large group of fluid oils, rubbers, resins and compounds derived from silica, and which are water repellant, skin adherant and stable over a wide range of temperatures. Sand is a silica. Used in aftershave preparations, hair-waving preparations, nail dryers, hair straighteners, hand lotions and protective creams.


About SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE: A synthetic mineral based on fluorine, aluminum and silicate; also known as synthetic fluorine mica; used as a bulking agent.

Function(s): Bulking Agent; Viscosity Increasing Agent - Aqueous; VISCOSITY CONTROLLING



Talc is a naturally occurring mineral, mined from the earth, composed of magnesium, silicon, oxygen, and hydrogen. Chemically, talc is a hydrous magnesium silicate with a chemical formula of Mg3Si4O10(OH)2.

Talc has many uses in cosmetics and other personal care products; in food, such as rice and chewing gum; and in the manufacture of tablets. For example, it may be used to absorb moisture, to prevent caking, to make facial makeup opaque, or to improve the feel of a product.

Asbestos is also a naturally occurring silicate mineral, but with a different crystal structure. Both talc and asbestos are naturally occurring minerals that may be found in close proximity in the earth. Unlike talc, however, asbestos is a known carcinogen. For this reason, FDA considers it unacceptable for cosmetic talc to be contaminated with asbestos.

Tin Oxide:

A coloring ingredient in cosmetics. A brownish black powder insoluble in water.

Titanium Dioxide:

Greatest covering tinting power of any white pigment used in bath powders, nail whites, depilatories, eyeliners, white eyeshadows, antiperspirants, face powders, protective creams, liquid powders, lipsticks, hand lotions, and nail polish. Occurs naturally in 3 different crystal forms. Used cheifly as a white pigment and opacifier, also a white pigment for candy gum. In high concentration, the dust may cause damage to lungs. Permanently listed for cosmetic use in 1973.

Vegetable Glycerin:

Glycerin (also called glycerol) is a naturally occurring alcohol compound and a component of many lipids. Glycerin may be of animal or vegetable origin. (we only use vegetable derived glycerin)



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